Sixth week on Te Araroa: km 697-827

Day 36: Wild camp to Double Hut: 26 km

We had a decent sleep last night. The wind woke us up in the early morning hours, but after Brian went outside to tighten the guy-lines we were able to fall back asleep.

We decided to sleep in and have a bit of a relaxing day today. This stretch was 25 km of relatively flat trail, much of which was on road and 4x4 track. We knew we could do the kilometres at a good pace, so didn’t leave camp until 10 am.

We crossed paths with so many SOBOs (southbound TA thru hikers) today. Close to 30 I would say. It sounds like we are encountering the SOBO bubble now. We had some really nice chats with many of them. One in particular was super memorable. It was a thru hiker who told me that following my daily videos on Instagram during my PCT thru hike inspired her to attempt her first thru hike and that’s why she was here on the TA. We all three had tears in our eyes as she recounted that my vulnerability is what really helped her see she could do it. I was so grateful she shared that. It has always been my hope that sharing my story might help inspire others to get outside. When I meet people who confirm it did, it makes all of it so worth it!! So if you’re reading this, thank you so much for being here, I appreciate you so much!

Most of the day today was very windy, which was great for keeping a bit cooler under the strong sun. We were walking through valleys filled with grass and tussock with towering foothills and peaks around us. It was dramatic and awe inspiring.

A relaxing and easy day of walking on Te Araroa.

It finally feels like I’m used to this trail. I’ve got my trail legs and my new allergy medication regimen continues to be effective every day. I do still feel some fatigue from the allergies, but nothing like it was. I am so glad I pushed myself to problem solve the challenges I was facing and adapt to this epic trail! I am very grateful to be here seeing these wild places.

Brian amongst the tussock.

We stayed at Double Hut this evening. We pitch our tent outside most times because we are more comfortable in our tent usually. We did check out Sir Edmond Hillary’s signature on the wall of the hut. It’s been preserved behind plexiglass because he signed in pencil. He was the first person to reach the summit of Mount Everest.

Double Hut, a DOC hut.

Day 37: Double Hut to A Frame Hut: 23 km

We were well rested when we set off up our big climb this morning. It was about 800 vertical metres to climb to the Clent Hills Saddle. The trail was smooth and the weather was cloudy, making it the perfect temperature for climbing.

The landscape was dramatic with rocky mountains on either side of us and beautiful flowing streams tumbling past us from the ridges. It was very LOTR coded.

After reaching the saddle we dropped down a bit and stopped to air out the tent and do a little drone flight. We crossed paths with a local guy who was out hunting deer and told us he stashed his meat at the saddle. He also told us what berries are edible if we come across them.

Dropping down a few kilometres we ended up in a river valley, the Round Hill Creek. The trail is the creek, so we walked through the water more times than we could count. It was difficult hiking but such incredible scenery that we didn’t mind! We even had a swim in the crystal clear water.

From the end of the creek walking we arrived at Comyn’s Hut, but kept hiking right past. The track became easier since it seems like it’s an old road and we easily made the final 5 km to A Frame Hut.

Brian entering A-Frame Hut to say hi to our Scottish friend.

Our Scottish trail friend was there and we had a right old chat with him while eating dinner. We all plan to attempt the Rakaia River ford tomorrow, so we made a plan to get hiking by 5 am to hit the river early. Big day tomorrow!

Our Durston X-Mid 2 Pro tent nestled in the hills beside A-Frame Hut.

Day 38: A Frame Hut to Lake Coleridge Powerhouse Lodge: 30 km

Today we had a river crossing and road walking to get to our goal. We started at 5 am to maximize the daylight we would have. We had 9 km to hike from the hut to the river and we made it there at 7 am, just after sunrise. Our Scottish trail friend was waiting for us and together as a team of three we crossed the river.

Brian in the Rakaia River, up to his knee in a fast flowing river braid.

Some of the Rakaia river braids were easy - not too fast and not too deep.

We made our final 15 km of the day on the road walk into Lake Coleridge Powerhouse Lodge. They are super hiker friendly here. We showered, did our laundry, got our packages (food and shoes), and got fresh fries!! We decided we won’t take a zero here since there are no restaurants around. Our plan is to push another 2.5 days to Arthur’s Pass and then zero there.

Grazing cattle overlooking the Rakaia River valley.

We felt extra special having a road post specifically for us Te Araroa trail users!!

We signed the largest trail marker in New Zealand at the Lake Coleridge Powerhouse Lodge.

Day 39: Lake Coleridge Powerhouse Lodge to Harper River Camping Area: 29 km

Today was almost all road walking, well 25 km worth. We knew we could do it quickly so I took the time to have two oat milk lattes this morning and we left at 10 am.

The trail took us along the road for a couple kilometres and then through some sheep paddocks and around a small lake. We then connected to Homestead Road and walked the road the rest of the way to the camping area. This region is wide open plains with towering peaks on either side. The grazing animals sure seem to have a wonderful life.

We saw another NOBO couple several times today, which was nice. And crossed paths with many SOBOs wondering how the hitchhiking was. We had no information since we walked the whole thing!

Brian and I had lots of conversations today, mostly about future plans for the rest of the year. We are getting excited to start solidifying some plans now that being on the trail has provided some clarity! Stay tuned :)

We dropped down to the river to get to the camp area. It’s not the greatest spot here, with one of the worst outhouses yet. Loud and a bit windy. But I'm grateful it was free! I would give it a 3/10 for camping.

Day 40: Harper River Camping Area to wild camp: 27 km

We left camp at 9 am and we were one of the last TA hikers to get hiking. The road walk was short and then we were on a 4x4 track heading up the Harper River valley. This part of the trail was really easy hiking and route finding.

We crossed paths with many SOBOs today. It seems we are still passing the SOBO “bubble”, which means the southbound hikers have formed into a big group. It is always fun to get to know some interesting people.

DOC huts come in all shapes, sizes and age.

After about 20 km the 4x4 track ended and the single trail hiking path started. I felt a relief! This is my favourite type of hiking and my favourite place to be. Out in the backcountry!! We were initially aiming for a hut tonight, but when we saw so many good camp spots along the way we opted to set up earlier than planned. I love having the option to have more solitude when we want or more of a social time at the hut if we want.

Wild camping and feeling happy!

We are both starting to feel really good physically. I was surprised at how easy today felt considering we hiked 37 km and 700 m vertical. We are getting strong!! I’m mentally ready to take a zero soon, in Arthur’s Pass, but I don’t feel like I need it physically as much.

Day 41: Wild camp to Arthur’s Pass: 17 km

We opted to have a very leisurely morning in the tent. It was glorious!! But then I noticed myself feeling anxious when we didn’t start hiking until noon. I was nervous about how it would be to try to catch a ride into town from the trail later in the day.

We didn’t have much climbing to do before we reached the saddle and the expansive views opened up! We could see glaciated peaks, a train way down in the valley, and waterfalls!! The descent from here was easy and rewarding! We kept crossing paths with 4 other NOBOs, which felt kind of cool to be amongst a little group.

We had some road walking to do before we walked by the Bealey Hotel. They serve dinner and we were into it! We got so much food and drinks and it was divine. We hadn’t had town food in a while and we cleaned all of our plates.

After dinner we had 5 km left along the river to where the trail junctions with the main road. We decided to walk and try to catch a ride at the same time. We didn’t make it 500 m before an American woman picked us up to drop us on her way to the coast.

We stayed at the Avalanche Creek Shelter Campsite, which is essentially just a small lawn around the shelter. It definitely does not seem like it was initially built to be a campground. We set up amongst a bunch of TA hikers and tried to sleep with the lights shining directly in our tent, the cars whizzing by, and the train passing through every now and then. It was a rough sleep!

Day 42: zero day in Arthur’s Pass Village.

We checked into the Mountain House backpackers for the night. We ate at both cafes. We picked up our two resupply packages. We got a lot of chores done on our phones. And we tried to rest a little bit too.

Thanks for reading! Stay tuned for next week’s update.

-Story