Tenth week on Te Araroa: km 1223-1313
Day 65: Havelock to Davie’s Bay: 23 km
It’s time for us to start another section of the TA! We decided not to take a rest day here in Havelock since we were feeling pretty good. But we decided to do a “shorter” hiking day. We took our time checking out and going for breakfast. We ran into another NOBO couple who we keep bumping into since Arthur’s Pass. I sent off some postcards.
Leaving Havelock
Then we finally started hiking. We were mostly on road today to get ourselves to the start of the well known Queen Charlotte Track. We thoroughly enjoyed stopping at restaurants along the way and interacting with locals. We are often offered rides and while we are very grateful, we tell them we want to walk!
Estuary boardwalk
First overlook of the day
Late lunch spot at a locals pub
As the sun started to get low in the sky we made it to the trailhead nestled in a beautiful bay. The Queen Charlotte Track is wide, well graded, and beautifully marked. It felt like the biggest luxury to us! We only had about 5 km on track to reach Davie’s Bay. It was this adorable quiet bay with beach and forest camp spots. We opted for the beach and as we set up the sun set and the stars started to come out. A small boat bobbed in the bay with fishing lines in the water. Brian set up our twinkly lights. Pure joy.
Davies Bay campsite
Day 66: Davie’s Bay to Bay of Many Coves: 31 km
Today is our first full day on the Queen Charlotte Track (QCT). As we gained the low ridgeline we realized why this trail is popular. With overlooks down on either side to the ocean and lush tropical forests to walk through, this is a stunning place! It’s also a very viable trail for people who don’t want to carry a heavy pack, as you can hike from resort to resort. There is even a service for your luggage to be shuttled by boat for you.
The stunning views began opening up
Ocean views on either side!
Making the most of the many resorts along the route
We were relishing in this set up. We stopped at a lush resort for an afternoon snack and cold drink. The luxury!!
Most people seem to stop hiking around 2 pm, so as we continued into sunset we had the track to ourselves. We watched the sun lower towards the sea as we were high up on the ridge. Wow!
Our view of sunset while eating our noodles for dinner
We arrived at the campsite at dusk. As we walked around looking for the flattest spot we saw at least 5 possums roaming around the site. This was a bit off putting, but it was 8 pm and our only option. We set up while scaring off one particularly brave possum. We had dinner earlier while watching the sunset, so all we had to do was set up and go to bed.
As usual, we hung our Ursacks in a tree. As I was editing my video in the tent I heard one of the Ursacks getting squished. I jumped up and investigated. The possum was on the sack of food, piercing it with its claws!! Brian tossed a stick at it to scare it away. It scurried off and we realized we needed a new plan. We headed over to the cooking shelter and noticed you could hang items from the ceiling. We hung up the sacks and crossed our fingers that the possums couldn’t get to them. As we fell asleep we heard the possums lunging themselves at the bags and then falling with a thump onto the ground or bench.
Sometime in the middle of the night a sound of plastic bag being crumpled woke me up. I asked Brian if he was rummaging for something. When he said “no, I’m lying here still” I sat up quickly, grabbing my headlamp. I shone it in the direction of the sound and saw a Weka bird scurry away under our vestibule. It took me a moment to realize what had happened. Brian’s plastic bag with his fresh roll of toilet paper in it was half inside and half outside the tent. The weka had pecked a hole in the mesh and started pulling the bag through the hole. We learned after this that they are attracted to anything shiny. We covered up the rest of the plastic so it hopefully wouldn’t be attracted again, placed Brian’s sitting pad across the hole, and tried to sleep. I woke up at least 20 more times every time the weka would get close to the tent again and would yell at it. Rough night.
Day 67: Bay of Many Coves to Resolution Bay Hut: 30 km
We woke up with a hole in our tent and grumpy attitudes. Since we did not sleep well we knew we would have a difficult morning. We tried to be kind to ourselves and just stick to our planned schedule.
Trying to shake off our dreary moods
A Weka bird just like the one who made a hole in our tent
We hiked along the beautiful trail and stopped in at the first resort we came across. Sitting at the floating cafe sipping our coffee was the turnaround we needed! I enjoyed watching the shuttle boats arrive with people or people’s luggage who are hiking here today. We even saw a group of women swim to the resort and celebrate their achievement. So cool seeing what everyone’s up to!
One of the many shuttle boats operating along the coast here
The floating cafe where a delicious latte turned our day around
The trail undulated through lush forest, along beaches, and up bluffs providing sweeping views. This is an incredibly beautiful hiking track. We stopped at the second resort we came across for drinks, fries, and ice cream.
At one point we decided we should not try tenting again on the QCT, since the campsites seem overrun with nocturnal critters. We called ahead to Resolution Bay Huts and asked them to be ready for us. When we arrived at dusk it couldn’t have been better. They had a whole 10 bed hut assigned to just us. There were towels, hot showers, bedding, a kitchen, and all in a beautiful location. Such a good stop for thru hikers!
Captivated by the many views
We are 6 km from Ship Cove, which marks the northern terminus of the TA on the South Island. I felt so excited about reaching this point that I had a hard time falling asleep.
Day 68: Resolution Bay Hut to Ship Cove (northern terminus of South Island): 6.2 km
It’s our last hiking day on the South Island!! I can hardly believe it! We were up early, needing to stick to schedule so that we catch our shuttle boat on time.
The bay was calm this morning
The saddle above Ship Cove
The last few kilometres were up to a small saddle and then dropped down the other side through lush forest. We celebrated when we reached the dock!! That’s 1,313 km hiked so far. Through some of the most rugged and challenging hiking terrain! I am so relieved we are here.
A beautiful plant along the route
Art at the trailhead
WE ARE DONE THE SOUTH ISLAND!!!
Waiting on the jetty for our pick up from E-ko Tours
Enjoying the views from the boat
We booked a shuttle through E-ko Tours. They were great! Right on time and pointed out different animals to us. We arrived in Picton and had an hour until our bus to Blenheim. Of course, we ate an extra large pizza while we waited.
The bus was only 30 minutes. We arrived in Blenheim, checked into our hotel, and ate food for the rest of the evening.
Day 69: zero day in Blenheim
Today we rented a tandem bicycle and did a self guided tour of the Marlborough wine region. It was so much fun! Our favourite winery that we went to was Cloudy Bay. Learning to ride the tandem bike together was a little tough at first, but we definitely got the hang of it. Wow our bodies are not used to riding though. Sitting on the bike seat was so painful!
Brian and I on the tandem bicycle
Posing with the vines in Marlborough
Day 70: zero day travel to Wellington
We took the Intercity bus from Blenheim to Picton. Then the ferry from Picton (South Island) to Wellington (North Island). We finally arrived at our hotel in Wellington around 8 pm. So tired. Bed immediately.
Day 71: zero day in Wellington
Our final day off of hiking today. We ate a lot of food, sent our resupply packages, sorted out some logistics, and tried to rest a bit too. Feeling excited to get back to hiking tomorrow!
The start of the North Island is tomorrow morning. That will be next week’s blog post. Cannot wait to share with you the stories from the North Island! See you then :)
Much love,
-Story
