Fourth week on Te Araroa: km 348-486

Day 22: Arrowtown to Roses Hut: 23 km

After my big and scary fall yesterday (see previous blog post), I was nervous to see how I was feeling today. Thankfully I woke up with no pain and no neurological symptoms. No bruising, nothing. I felt confident that it was okay to attempt to hike today. 

We woke up at 5 am and got hiking by 6:30 am to try to beat the heat up the first climb. We moved quickly up to the spot I had fallen, about 3 km into the day. I very slowly and hesitantly passed that spot. When I looked down at the imprint I made in the grass below I was shocked that I was somehow uninjured. I was surprised at how much of a physical reaction I had. My heart was racing, hands were shaking, felt dizzy, and felt like crying. I took a pause a few hundred metres later to calm my nervous system and have a snack. Brian played a meditation for us both to do. This felt necessary to ensure I could stay calm and focussed for the rest of the day.

The trail just kept getting better! We climbed up to a saddle and the views were spectacular!! We dropped down the other side into Macetown, an uninhabited historic gold mining settlement. Then we climbed up to Roses Saddle, a high and stunning mountain pass! We dropped down the other side towards Roses Hut at 8 pm, arriving at 9 pm. What a long day!! I was so grateful we made it.

Brian amongst the rugged hills.

Brian and Krysta selfie time.

Beautiful wild flowers filled this valley!!

Roses Saddle.

Our Canadian made Durston X-Mid 2 Pro tent setup amongst the hills of New Zealand.

Day 23: Roses Hut to Glendhu Bay Holiday Park: 25.8km

Today we tackled our hardest hiking day yet. We had 3 mountain passes to climb, totalling ~1,700 vertical metres of climbing. We got going around 6 am and started our climb. We decided to have some alone time and hike separately today. I need alone time to recharge, so I was really grateful for this after a difficult couple of days. These mountains are beautiful. The ridges we were walking on were brown and green with grasses and brush. The taller peaks were rocky and some even had small patches of snow. 

We met several other NOBO and SOBO TA hikers throughout the day. We took a break for a late lunch at Highland Creek Hut and then decided to hike the rest of the day together. The final (third) climb up to Jack Hall's Saddle was equal parts challenging as it was stunning. We were loving talking about exploration and we climbed higher and higher up to 1,263 m.

After this, the rest of the day was a long descent down to Lake Wānaka. Our final 10 km were very tough. We left the river valley, hiked through a deer farm, and then finished the day on 5 km of road walking. 

View from Highland Creek DOC Hut.

Rehydrated potatoes and mexican chilli, a staple lunch time meal for us.

The Glendhu Holiday Park was very busy! Lots of partying happening! Our campsite was HUGE! We could have fit ~30 of our size tents. We set up around 10 pm on the hay covered site. 

Day 24: Glendhu Bay to Wānaka: 16 km

My hayfever was HORRIBLE this morning. After walking through a lot of grass and sleeping amongst hay last night, my eyes were severely itchy and swollen and my nose was swollen shut. I couldn't even eat my breakfast this morning because I couldn't breathe.

We started hiking towards the town of Wānaka at 6 am. The route is a beautiful lakeside multi use path, mostly flat. As we progressed it became clear we needed a zero day in Wānaka. I have consistently wondered if I want to keep hiking with how badly I'm suffering from environmental allergies. We decided to ask for more advice in Wānaka and try to do a good reset.

We went out for lunch at Big Fig, which was unbelievably good. Then checked out some outdoor stores, before heading to the pharmacy. I got a recommendation from the pharmacist for a different medication and for a nasal spray. Really hoping this new mixture works for me!

Checked into Mountain View Backpackers where we had the private room booked. I was so exhausted it was all I could do to go grab dinner. I fell asleep at 7 pm and slept until 10:30 am the next day. Wow I needed that.

In a bad mood from terrible allergies.

Lake Wānaka.

Day 25: Wānaka rest day: 0 km

Today I focussed on eating and catching up on emails and writing this blog. I was very hungry after sleeping for 14 hours. We went for breakfast at Federal Cafe and then I walked over to the Wānaka Library. 

The librarian signed me into the computer and it was so nice to get some online tasks done on a computer. I stayed here for a couple hours and then Brian met me to head to an outdoor store to look at a sleeping bag. 

We seriously considered getting me the Rab Eco Solar 2 bag. But after another meal and some deliberation we decided to see if I was warm enough at night now that I have different allergy medications. We might have to get me a warmer bag later. 

Then we realized our bounce box was waiting for us in Wānaka. We didn’t remember where we sent it way back when we didn’t know the names of any places. Thankfully we got there right before they closed and we were able to bounce the box ahead of us after pulling out the resupply we needed!

We grabbed a Dominos pizza for dinner and hung out the rest of the night at the hostel. 

Day 26: Wānaka to Lake Haweā: 25 km

We had breakfast at Federal Cafe again and then hit the trail!

Brian had missed a few days of meditation and he was dysregulated. We ended up having an argument and I was really upset. 

The hiking was very easy. There is this beautiful multi use trail that connects the towns. We did 25 km in 6 hours!

Lake Haweā.

We stopped at the grocery store before checking into our Airbnb. It was so luxurious!! Beautifully decorated and comfortable space. The shower was unreal. 

We got over our fight, had a really nice conversation, and then relaxed on the couch watching the Lord of the Rings. 

Day 27: Lake Haweā to wild camp: 25 km

The day started out really cruisy around the lake. Then we started our big climb up into the mountains. It was such a stunning climb! The trail switchbacked, which was amazing!! 

I was feeling increasingly thirsty as we gained altitude. Thankfully there was a hut about 200 m off trail just before the summit. We drank a bunch of water and then made the summit! Wowww so stunning overlooking the lake!!

Lake Haweā from atop the surrounding ridgeline.

Sunny day selfie above Lake Haweā.

The descent was really nice on a 4x4 track. We dropped all the way down to the river valley, which turned into a very steep single track. By the time we were paralleling the river, it was 7:30 pm and we were ready to make camp.

We filled up our CNOC’s and strapped them to our packs when we were 0.5 km from camp. As I was traversing a steep slope, my CNOC slipped out and tumbled down to the river below. 

This is a key piece of gear I need to filter my water, so I decided to try to climb down to get it. It was steep, but I was able to find a route that was possible moving from tree to tree. When I got down to the bottom my water sack was nowhere in sight. I combed the riverbank and didn’t find it. I realized that it must have landed in the river and I started heading downstream, looking intently into the milky gray water. I thought I spotted it but realized when I got close it was just a shiny rock. I was about to give up when I decided to go another 10 feet and there it was, stuck on a shallow rock, rolling with the water as it pushed against it. It looked dangerously close to moving downstream again so I pounced on it! I was honestly so shocked I found it. I let out a big “whoop!” And Brian knew I had found it from way up the bank. 

The climb back up was a lot more challenging, but Brian tossed me some string so that he could pull up the CNOC while I made my final ascent. Victory!!

Te Araroa trail marker.

We went another 0.5 km and spotted a perfect flat spot just above the river. In the commotion I lost Bella, the tiniest of my two sheep buddies made by the incredible Woodlanders Online (https://woodlandersonline.com). I needed to go on a second rescue mission. I headed back to where we first dropped our packs and did a very thorough scan of the ground and there she was!! I was so stoked it was incredible to rescue both of my items! The sounds of the soothing river and the hundreds of sandflies trying to get into our tent lulled us to sleep. 

Stella and Bella, my mini sheep Woodlander trail companions, happily reunited after my second rescue mission of the day.

Day 28: wild camp to Tin Hut (private): 24 km

The first 5 km of our day was in the river valley. With lots of up and down and river fords we were moving slow. It was noon before we finished 5 km!! Brian was dysregulated and he realized he’d missed several days of meditation. It was a night and day difference once he meditated for 10 minutes! 

We had lunch at Top Timaru Hut with stunning peaks all around us. It was a feast!! We needed that energy to start our massive climb up to Martha Saddle at 1,687 m. The views were incredible and it felt amazing to have made it here after so many doubts this morning!

Brian leading the ascent up to our final saddle of the day.

Reaching the saddle in the late afternoon.

Dropping down the other side was fast moving on an old road. It didn’t take long at all to make the 5 km to a private hut called Tin Hut. We looked ahead at our route, knowing we wanted to make it 5 more km today. It was unclear if we were allowed to camp there, so we decided to stay here at the hut tonight and have a massive day tomorrow, 40 km!!

Tin Hut, a private hut located on Longslip Station.

Open air long drop at Tin Hut with a sunset glow on the surrounding hills.

I can’t wait to share what happens next week with you! We will pick up right where we left off here at Tin Hut in next week’s blog post!

Wishing you well,

-Story